A good sleep revived me for a big day. Breakfast of coffee and muesli premixed with protein powder. That strawberry flavour would repeat until my next meal. Coat or not was the big question this morning, rain was threatening but I tend to overheat with it on. No, leave it off but handy. By the time I hit the first hill drizzle had joined me, so it was on with the coat.
Day 2
Murupara to Lake Waikeremoana then on to Big Bush back packers
Total distance: 113 km | Departed: 7.30 am| Ruatahuna: 11.15 am | Arrived: 5.30 pm |
Total time: 10 hr | Overall average: 11km/hr | Moving time: 7.15 hr | Moving average: 15.5 km/hr
A good sleep revived me for a big day. Breakfast of coffee and muesli premixed with protein powder. That strawberry flavour would repeat until my next meal.
Coat or not was the big question this morning, rain was threatening but I tend to overheat with it on. No, leave it off but handy. By the time I hit the first hill drizzle had joined me, so it was on with the coat. The first of many climbs today. Murupara sits at about 200m asl, the road over to Waikeremoana tops out at over 900m asl, at least it would be spread over the day. The road sign promises 75km of gravel and to watch out for horses.
No gravel until after Te Whiti but plenty of hills to grind up. The road was quiet with a few trades vehicles coming through, a bit unusual I thought at this time of the year. I leave the pines behind, marginal farm land and eventually bush become my scenery, with the occasional horse lurking off the road sides. Shortly after 11 I reach Ruatahuna hoping for a shop for pie & primo. No such luck as all I see is lengths of safety barrier and a flock of tradies working on the new visitor’s centre, due to open in April. Nothing to see here, folks, so I move on finding a picnic table to prepare my dehy meal on, further down the road.
The clouds have cleared to a pleasant day, warm enough for the sand flies to come for a feed. Out with the meths burner and on with the water. To get the energy I need I have opted for double dehydrated meals the trouble is I can’t eat that much on my tender stomach. I close the zip lock top and stow the left overs in my pocket for later. The riding is pleasant following along the river, this soon gives way to climbing, another 46km to the lake. I drove through last time missing the intimacy you get with the scenery on a bike. I usually don’t stop at the top of hills but make an exception after two big climbs. No big views but some food & water are much appreciated as well as relieving the pressure on my butt and stretching my legs. While I enjoy speed on the downhills, it can get a bit hairy with fairly skinny tires (35s) on gravel, throw in some corrugations and it’s all on! I try to avoid getting sideways as I’m scared of rolling a tire off the rim, which almost always results in gravel rash and damaged gear. On tar seal I’ve got up to 75km/hr fully laden on my MTB and the x bike is faster, on gravel at 55 things are getting hairy especially as the straights are short and pot holes & loose gravel await the unwary on corners. It is also hard to enjoy the scenery at those speeds, with no suspension the judders rattle the eyeballs making vision blurry!
A bridge over the Hopuruahine Stream lets me know that the lake is not too far away, this is a lovely piece of road with the stream falling steeply to my right. I stop to see if it would be kayakable. Too steep I conclude. Eventually the lake comes into view as I round the Waihirere Bluff. There is a viewing point about 100m above the lake, I take one of the few photos of the trip as it is stunning in the sun, with the blue of the lake and the green of the bush. The road starts to get busy as I rest here, 2 vehicles come past kicking up dust, as it settles I push on and meet a couple of women cyclists not long out of Waikeremoana. They ask about the 2 camp sites back down the road, their plan is to cover about 50km/day, exploring as they go, they have panniers and MT bikes so a few more comforts than I allow myself. It is here that I learn the camp ground is closed due to flooding, but they tell me of a place to stay further down. I have learned that the art of yarning is vital for gathering & giving intel. Spend the time to hear other’s stories and you will be a better-informed person.
I push on to the camp office just in case there is something available as weariness has beset me. No absolutely nothing, so a pie it is, with an ice-cream, recovering in the sun overlooking the lake. They mention free camping 5km on at Rosie’s Bay. I miss the turn off and get a great view of the site from well above, it looks pretty full. I also hate backtracking, hard won metres should not be given up unless there is a really good (safety) reason to do so. It is only 4pm so if the worst comes I can continue the 50km to Frasertown. I’m looking for the camp the 2 women mentioned when I see a signpost to Kaitawa Camp, it is near the power station so I cruise the km down to it. There are a bunch of motor caravan people having afternoon tea. They assure me there is no place to stay as it is a camp owned by a trust for the local schools and they are the caretakers. Disappointed I head back uphill but not much further on I find Big Bush Back Packers. They have beds and camping areas but no staff. The guys I find have booked online and are using the facilities as part of a lake transport package. I wait hoping to make contact and with no mobile phone access I can’t ring them. In the end I grab a shower and stay with the Russian & the Kiwi. I contact the company when I get back to pay but they have not returned my email. It has been a good day and my reflux not such a problem though I’m still not eating enough. There is plenty of water along the way to rehydrate.